Mario Paoluzi created I Custodi in 2007, after befriending Mount Etna guru Salvo Foti, who took him to a vineyard that was for sale. I Custodi is a member of Foti’s I Vigneri (the vineyard workers) consorzio, which provides a team of vineyard workers who are expert at tending Etna’s old bush-trained vines in volcanic soils and other technical assistance, as well as the group’s bottle with the embossed alberello vine and “I Vigneri 1435” – the year the original I Vigneri winegrowers’ guild was formed in Catania. (Somewhat confusingly, Salvo Foti also calls the wines he makes under his own label “I Vigneri”.) I Custodi practices organic farming in Etna’s sandy, volcanic, mineral-rich soils. Fermentations are indigenous.

Pistus is 80% nerello mascalese and 20% nerello cappuccio from younger vines at 700 meters altitude in Contrada Moganazzi, on the north side of Etna. Farming is certified organic. “Pistus” is Latin for the Italian pestato (tread - by foot). In the old days, the vineyard workers would stomp the grapes and macerate them briefly to make the fresh, easy wine that they drank every day and all day. I Custodi's wine is of course an updated version, pressed with a press, fermented briefly in stainless steel, and aged in concrete and then in bottle. But it's still fresh, lively, thirst-quenching, and delicious, with that unmistakable volcanic crunch. 13% alcohol